The Japanese Odyssey

[35mm film photos taken on 6 disposable cameras over thirteen and a half days]

Two thousand three hundred kilometers long, maybe more. Forty-six thousand meters of ascent. Guaranteed. Three hundred twenty-four hours to complete. The Japanese Odyssey leads with numbers front and center on its website. The next line feels like a dare: “Be prepared for the most scenic yet punishing ride you’ll ever attempt.”

On October 3, 2025, 84 cyclists from 24 countries departed from the base of Sakurajima volcano in southern Japan. There was no fixed route and no support. Over the next thirteen and a half days, each rider would chart their own path north to Matsumoto, linking 20 mandatory checkpoints across the country’s most remote and mountainous terrain.

The theme of the 2025 Japanese Odyssey was “The Forgotten Tōge.” The forgotten mountain pass. There is a dreamlike quality to the official route description:

“Your adventure begins at the foot of Sakurajima volcano, nestled in Kagoshima Bay. Soon, you’ll leave the main roads behind and venture into the lush, humid forests of Kyushu. Next, board a ferry to Shikoku and explore the island’s most secluded forest roads. From there, journey through Nara and Mie prefectures, where you’ll have the chance to experience the breathtaking autumn colors these regions are famous for. Take a quick ferry to Ise, then continue northward, culminating your journey deep in the heart of the Japanese Alps.”

It is a romantic paragraph. It does not mention crying on a bidet at three in the morning. Or the chewed-up tires and dented rims. The unrelenting rain. The roads torn open by typhoons. The fetal-position naps on the side of the road.

Bikepacking ultra events promise suffering. Japan softens the edges just a little. Konbini are open around the clock, which means a rider can roll into a convenience store at 2 a.m., soaked to the bone, and be revived by a hot meal, hot coffee, and a fresh pair of Family Mart-branded socks. Local sentō offer a chance to rinse off that second skin of salt and dirt. Internet cafes offer a place to sleep by the hour. Vending machines appear on the loneliest of roads. But when the clock doesn’t stop, relief is only temporary...

https://bikepacking.com/plog/japanese-odyssey-voice-memos/